In these super-bling models by Rolex, new this year is the size, 39 mm, and the automatic calibre 3235, which is chronometer-certified by COSC and then tested in-case by Rolex. It attains a precision of +2/-2 secs per day, which is double the COSC standard (+4/-4) and has a power reserve of 70 hours, so that you can in theory put it in your safe on Friday evening, put it back on your wrist on Monday morning and it will still be running. In theory, because these watches are for those fortunate few who live on gated estates or surrounded by bodyguards. The flash effect of the solid gold case and Pearlmaster bracelet is compounded by the gem-set bezel. But in actual fact, the stones are sapphires, and so the prices of these models are in the order of from £49,000 to £58,000, with pavé diamond versions, in which the dial is fully paved and the bracelet is set with diamonds, available at from £89,000 to £98,000.
In addition to making its own gold, its own movements, cases, bracelets, just about everything, Rolex has its own gemmological laboratory for selecting gemstones, and its own gemsetters who create the colour-graded sequence of 48 baguette-cut sapphires, blue to pink in the white gold version, and blue to green or orange to yellow on the yellow gold versions.
The gold and precious stones accompany a watch that has all the Rolex characteristics of precision and robustness. The Oyster case is waterproof to 100 metres, with screw-down solid caseback and winding crown. The Pearlmaster bracelet has rounded links and a highly functional concealed Crownclasp.
References and prices
The Rolex Oyster DateJust Pearlmaster 39, in its sapphire gemset versions, is made in the following versions:
Reference (case – bracelet): 86348 SABLV – 42748, yellow gold case and bracelet, olive green sunray dial, 48 baguette-cut sapphires in a blue-green-yellow gradient, price £51,550
Reference (case – bracelet): 86348 SAJOR – 42748, yellow gold case and bracelet, cognac orange sunray dial, 48 baguette-cut sapphires in a red-orange-yellow gradient, price £49,850
Reference (case – bracelet): 86349 SAFUBL – 42749, white gold case and bracelet, grape red sunray dial, 48 baguette-cut sapphires in a blue-pink gradient, price £58,250