The new versions of the L.U.C XPS by Chopard are dress watches with a modern style. Four versions give today’s gentleman the possibility of selecting his preferred look, which ranges from the most classical gold with silvered dial, to the now popular blue-dial trend. The four models have different prices, ranging from €7,790 for the stainless steel version to €24,630 for the platinum version, and they also have different movements. The piece below is in platinum.
All four models have a 40 mm case, slim at 7.2 mm, with a slightly domed watchglass that slips easily under a shirt cuff. Water resistance for all is 3 atm, 30 metres. The lugs are short and profiled for maximum comfort on the wrist. The caseband is vertically satin-brushed, while bezel, lugs and caseback are polished. The dials are differentiated in finish, sunburst brushed for the gold and platinum versions, grained for the steel version. The hour markers are nicely sculpted appliqués, and the numeral 12 is also beautifully detailed with the signature font and polished facets. Text on the dial is limited to a minimum as befits a dress watch. Below, the version in white gold.
Dress watch choices
Opinions vary on the perfect dress watch, but the most important factor is simplicity. The four variants of the Chopard L.U.C XPS offer the choice of having a date window or not (in the photos provided, it looks like the gold versions don’t have the date window), and a classic dress watch would definitely not have a date window. The other feature of the L.U.C XPS is the small seconds display at 6 o’clock. This is an addition to the dial that would not be present in a classic dress watch. But there is a good reason for it: all the watches are chronometer-certified, and to obtain this certification, a seconds hand is essential, required by the COSC Testing Institute. The watch’s format is described by Chopard’s acronym XPS: XP stands for extra-plat, or ultra-thin, and the S stands for the small seconds display. Below, the version in pink gold.
Strap and buckle
The four L.U.C XPS models are powered by three different movements. They all have a micro-rotor that winds the watch automatically. The stainless steel version has an oscillating weight in tungsten, while the gold and platinum versions have oscillating weights in gold. They have twin barrels providing from 58 to 65 hours of power reserve. The platinum L.U.C XPS is hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève quality mark in addition to COSC certification. All the movements have the stop-second function.
Chopard L.U.C XPS in stainless steel, reference 168591-3001, price €7,790
This watch is powered by the self-winding 96.50-L “Chronometer Twin Evo” movement, with a tungsten stamped micro-rotor – tungsten is a metal with a density comparable to that of uranium and gold. The calibre has 197 components and 27 jewels. It is 3.3 mm thick. The balance runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hertz), and the two barrels provide a power reserve of 58 hours. Bridges are finished with Côtes de Genève. The watch is chronometer-certified by COSC, therefore with a precision of -4/+6 seconds max deviation per day. Price 7,900 Swiss francs, €7,790.
L.U.C XPS in white gold, reference 161948-1001, price €15,160
The white gold version of the L.U.C XPS is powered by the 96.12-L “Classic Twin” chronometer movement, which has a solid gold oscillating weight, and two mainspring barrels providing 65 hours of power reserve. There are 172 components, 29 jewels, and the balance runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hertz). Bridges are finished with Côtes de Genève. The watch is chronometer-certified by COSC, therefore with a precision of -4/+6 seconds max deviation per day. Price 15,390 Swiss francs, €15,160.
L.U.C XPS in rose gold, reference 161948-5001, price €15,160
This is the most classical version of the L.U.C XPS, with gilded hour markers and hands, and a silvered dial. It is powered by the same movement as the white gold watch, the 96.12-L “Classic Twin” chronometer-certified movement. Price 15,390 Swiss francs, €15,160.
L.U.C XPS in platinum, reference 161946-9001, price
Chopard’s platinum watches all have blue dials, and this piece has a matching blue alligator leather strap with blue alligator lining and a platinum pin buckle. This version of the L.U.C XPS is powered by the self-winding 96.01-L “Chronometer Poinçon de Genève” movement, and it is the only one of the four to have the Poinçon de Genève quality mark. It has 208 components, 29 jewels, and runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hertz), with a power reserve of 65 hours provided by the two mainspring barrels. The balance spring has swan-neck regulation. Price 25,000 Swiss francs, €24,630.