In 2016 Glashütte Original presented its new Calibre 36 movement with 100 hours power reserve and a bayonet mounting system. This year at Baselworld the brand presented a perpetual calendar watch in red gold and steel, the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar, that extends the family of watches using this new movement.
The big date, day, month, leap year cycle and moon phase are distributed on the dial in the usual Glashütte Original fashion, leaving lots of space for an uncluttered look. Settings can quickly be adjusted using recessed correctors on the caseband. The rectangular windows have a frame that curves at the two sides, while the leap year subdial has a hand moving counterclockwise, and the moon phase indicator is tipped up to about 45 degrees. These features add a touch of quirkiness to the dial. But the overall feel is classical 19th century.
Cool steel, warm red gold
The grained silvered dial in the steel version has a colour scheme restricted to black, with the blue of the hands and moon phase display. The red gold version is warmer, with minute and leap year numerals in red. Dials are made by Glashütte Original’s own dial factory in Pforzheim.
Case and strap
The case is moderately sized at 42 mm diameter and 12.8 mm thickness. It is waterproof to 5 bar. The steel version is available with a black alligator strap with buckle or folding clasp, or with a stainless steel bracelet. The red gold version comes with a brown alligator strap with red gold buckle or folding clasp.
Calibre 36 movement
The watch is powered by the Calibre 36 movement that forms the heart of the growing Senator Excellence family. It has a silicon balance spring that improves precision, while the single mainspring barrel provides 100 hours of power reserve. The balance runs at 4 Hertz, 28,800 vibrations per hour. Movement finish is superb, with polished and blued screws, the traditional Glashütte three-quarter plate with Glashütte stripes, skeletonized rotor with peripheral weight in gold, a balance with rate adjustment screws, and swan-neck beat symmetry adjustment.
Glashütte Original have their own internal certification system, with a testing procedure that lasts 24 days and is even more demanding than German chronometer tests. An engraving on the caseback represents a seal of quality, and the test results are provided with the watch.
Prices and references
In red gold, the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is reference 1-36-02-02-05-30, price €30,500. In steel the reference number is 1-36-02-01-02-30, price €18,000. More information from the Glashütte Original website.