Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Spring Drive Chronograph GMT

A lot is going on at Seiko. Even though the Grand Seiko brand was launched in 1960, for 50 years it remained something of a secret, with watches only available locally. It was launched internationally in 2010, and the first Seiko boutique outside Japan will open on 21 June 2017, on Brompton Road in London.…

Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph Automatic

Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph Automatic

Often, when one brand buys another, the brand that has been absorbed gradually disappears from sight, such as the case of Bulgari and its purchase of Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth in 2000. Today, the two smaller brands have been entirely integrated into Bulgari, and there is no mention of the independent designers on the…

Hamilton Intra-Matic 68 Auto Chrono

Hamilton Intra-Matic 68 Auto Chrono

Hamilton’s Intra-Matic 68 Auto Chrono is closely based on their 1968 Chronograph B, as you can see from the two images below. The main difference is size. The 1968 Chronograph B was 36 mm in diameter, normal for men’s watches at that time, while the new Intra-Matic 68 is 42 mm in diameter, reflecting today’s…

Breitling Avenger Hurricane Military

Breitling Avenger Hurricane Military

The Avenger Hurricane Military by Breitling is truly super-tough in its looks, and its gigantic 50 mm case requires a bodybuilt wrist to wear it. I’m always a bit suspicious about unfit people wearing camouflage trousers, who make me think “Hey, come on, who are you kidding?” with the same sort of annoyance that I…

Hamilton Khaki Air Race

Hamilton Khaki Air Race

Hamilton created the Khaki Air Race watch to celebrate their sponsorship of the Red Bull Air Race World Championship, for which they are official timer from this year, 2017. It doesn’t have any of the traditional pilot’s watch features, but the visual design has a lot in common with Panerai, for example the Radiomir 1940…

Cvstos SeaLiner Chrono Regata Blue

Cvstos SeaLiner Chrono Regata

Cvstos spells things out. Definitely Cvstos and not Custos, and Regata, not regatta, because Regata is the original Medieval Latin word for a boat race. The Sealiner Chrono Regata, presented in 2016, was designed specifically for timing the complex series of manoeuvres leading up to the start of a regatta. Everything about this watch is…

Bovet 1822 Château de Môtiers 40 Papillon

Top 5 butterfly watches

You couldn’t exactly call them a popular theme in watches, but there have been several watches on a butterfly theme this year. Butterflies have all sorts of symbolic meanings, such as their short life which contrasts with the sense of eternity provided by a watch (Rabindranath Tagore , “The butterfly counts not months but moments,…

Panerai Luminor 1950 Regatta Oracle Team USA PAM00726

Panerai is an official partner of the 35th America’s Cup, and it has launched a series of watches made in collaboration with the event, and with the two teams Oracle Team USA and Softbank Team Japan. The most complex of these special edition watches is the Panerai Luminor 1950 Regatta Oracle Team USA 3 Days…

MB&F LM1 Final Edition

MB&F LM1 Final Edition

MB&F do a lot of things differently. With their Final Edition of Legacy Machine N°1, they are introducing another innovation: concluding a series with a special model that will be the last. 435 LM1 pieces have been built since its launch in 2011, making it MB&F’s second-most successful model after Horological Machine N°3. “Only by…

Blancpain Date Moon Phases

Blancpain Quantième Phases de Lune

Women’s preferences as regards watches are a debated question. The main dichotomy is between quartz and mechanical. Brands such as Glashütte Original use quartz for their Pavonina watches and say that women prefer quartz because the watch is always running and so doesn’t need fiddly adjustment on a small crown. But, talking to a woman…

Limes Pharo DayDate

Limes Pharo DayDate

Limes, part of the Ickler stable that also owns Archimede, has introduced a new version of its Pharo DayDate. This is an attractive but relatively rare complication, and Limes’ version has touches of refinement such as the Clous-de-Paris guilloché dial, the fluting on the case side and blue Breguet hands. Case and dial The case…

Patek Philippe 7130 ladies’ World Time

Patek Philippe’s World Time for women is a variation of a watch that is already part of the catalogue. The new version has a white gold case 36 mm in diameter, a bezel set with 62 diamonds, and a blue-grey hand-guilloché dial, confirming the ongoing success of the blue-dial trend. The alligator strap is in…

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special 40 mm

Zenith is one of the few brands making watches in the early pilot’s style to have a genuine historic prototype on which to base its new models. The original timepiece made for Louis Blériot in 1909 set the scene for pilot’s watches, with its cathedral hands, large, chunky numerals, and a crown large enough to…

Tissot Heritage Banana

Tissot Heritage Banana

The Heritage Banana by Tissot celebrates an anniversary, a rather unusual one for watchmaking: the Russian Revolution. A Russian customer bought a gold Tissot watch in 1916, and sent it back to Tissot in 1917 for maintenance and safekeeping during the October Revolution. Tissot were not able to return it due to import restrictions on…

Breitling Navitimer Rattrapante steel

Top 10 watches at Baselworld 2017

Baselworld is an enormous show, and this year it ran for a week starting from 23 March. The major trends emerging from the stands were a confirmation of the popularity of blue dials, the rise of sports watches – pieces with some features of diving watches but intended for everyday use – a move towards…

Jaquet Droz Loving Butterfly Automaton

The inspiration for this Jaquet Droz watch came from a sketch made by Henri-Louis Jaquet-Droz (Pierre’s son), for an automaton of a cherub on a chariot drawn by a butterfly. From 1768 to 1774, Pierre and Henri-Louis created some extraordinary automata, such as The Writer (a boy who dips a pen into an inkwell and…

Zenith Defy El Primero 21

Zenith Defy El Primero 21, a 100th-second chronograph

The Defy El Primero 21 by Zenith was undoubtedly one of the highlights of Baselworld 2017. With its chronograph seconds hand flashing around the dial once a second, and its movement that ensures timekeeping precision by means of two gear chains and two regulators, one for time and one for the chronograph, it is a…

Bovet 1822 Château de Môtiers 40 Papillon

Bovet 1822 Château de Môtiers 40 Papillon

The Château de Môtiers 40 Papillon by Bovet 1822 is a watch with a mother-of-pearl dial painted with a butterfly motif. The unusual feature is that it is painted with both conventional colour and luminescent paint, so that it takes on new life in the dark. Bovet say that the difficult part of the process…

Tudor Clair de Rose

Tudor Clair de Rose

The Tudor Clair de Rose has been completely reworked with respect to the 2013 version that had some interesting design touches, such as the rose forming the continuous seconds indicator (instead of a seconds hand) and the quirky crown protector. In the new 2017 Clair de Rose, Tudor have returned to a more classical design,…