Montblanc TimeWalker Rally Timer

I really like this watch, for several reasons. First of all, it’s a bit crazy. A massive, bulky piece, 50 mm in diameter, 15.2 mm thick, the sort of exaggerated passion that is quite unusual for a measured, Germanic brand such as Montblanc. It has a refreshing brashness. Second, it has some features which, refined…

Richard Mille RM 50-03 McLaren F1

This is the first watch presented by Richard Mille in 2017, and it reflects the partnership that he signed with McLaren in 2016, a ten-year agreement. It is based on Richard’s authentic passion for McLaren: he watched the McLaren team’s debut in Monaco in 1966. The watch incorporates high-tech materials such as titanium and Carbon…

Ulysse Nardin Marine Regatta

The start of a regatta is pure adrenalin. You’re stooging around trying to keep your eyes on the imaginary starting line between the jury boat and the buoy, as well as on the other boats, and then there is a series of signals, for example one at five minutes from the start, signalled by raising…

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-01 Full Black Matt Ceramic

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-01 Full Black Matt Ceramic

This is a preview of a watch that TAG Heuer will be presenting in Geneva later this month (January 2017), a chronograph entirely in ceramic, including the bracelet. It is based on the Carrera Heuer-01 launched in 2015, with a 12-piece case that allows a range of combinations of materials and colours. The 2017 version…

Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition

Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition

The incorporation of Minerva, a watchmaking company founded in Villeret in 1858, into Montblanc has added a lot of depth to the brand’s range of products. At Villeret, it’s all about traditional watchmaking, using traditional machine tools. The watches emerging from Villeret are priced much higher than those made at Montblanc’s other manufacturing unit in…

Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph Artemis Racing

Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph Artemis Racing

The Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph Artemis Racing celebrates the brand’s partnership with America’s Cup team Artemis Racing, and it gets some good stuff from the deal. The Artemis Racing logo is very effective and it appears on one of the metal elements on the rubber strap, and on the 30-minute chronograph at 9 o’clock. There…

Seiko Presage Chronograph SRQ019J1

Top five vertical clutch chronographs 2016

Chronographs with column wheel and vertical clutch have some significant benefits with respect to those with horizontal clutch or with cam chronograph movements. There is virtually no extra energy absorption when the chronoograph is running, and in some vertical clutch chronographs, the balance wheel amplitude actually increases slightly. You can leave the chronograph running all…

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

The Royal Oak is a true legend in watchmaking, from its design – created by Gérald Genta in one night (the story goes), inspired by an old-fashioned diving helmet attached to a diving suit with screws – to its name, taken from a series of eight Royal Navy warships, in turn named after an old…

Richard Mille RM 11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph

Five most illegible chronographs 2016

There are some chronographs whose dial is designed specifically to facilitate readings of elapsed time. On the other hand there are a few in which the dial makes it difficult or impossible to measure a span of time. The chronograph function becomes a purely decorative motif, and the pushers a sort of anti-stress game. All…

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph

Things have changed at the top. Just a few years ago, virtually all high-end Swiss watch brands were enjoying double-digit growth. Already at the start of this year Richemont cut watchmaking jobs in Switzerland, affecting principally Cartier, Vacheron Constantin and Piaget, and, according to trade union reports, there are plans to axe another 200 jobs,…

Oris Williams Chronograph Carbon Fibre Extreme

Oris Williams Chronograph Carbon Fibre Extreme

For any brand, success or failure depends on brand credibility, the right product, and the right price. Oris is not one of the best-known names in watchmaking, but it has a lot of brand value, carefully nurtured by a move towards vertical integration – making more and more of its product components in-house. The Oris…

Oris ProDiver Chronograph

Oris ProDiver Chronograph

At 51 mm diameter, this is certainly a large watch, but after all, Oris call it a tool watch, and it was born to be underwater, strapped over a wet suit. It is a new version of the ProDiver Chronograph introduced in 2009. It has a 100 bar/1,000 metre water resistance, achieved by means of…

Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935

Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935

You could say that Longines is becoming specialized in monopusher chronographs. The Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 is a variant on a chronograph already in the collection, featuring the crown-wheel movement developed exclusively for Longines by ETA, the movement constructing company that, like Longines, is now part of Swatch Group. Avigation Type A-7 has a…

Bulova Curv

Bulova Curv chronograph

My instinct is not to write about men’s watches with quartz movements, but Curv by Bulova, presented at Baselworld in March 2016, has some significant features. The curved case is nothing new, but this watch has some extra features that are worth a comment. The watch has a transparent caseback, displaying the quartz movement. I…

Steinhart Ocean One Vintage Chronograph

Looks familiar? The Steinhart Ocean One Vintage Chronograph rings a bell, because it is a sort of tribute to the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Reference 6239, in the version that became known as the Paul Newman Daytona, because the actor wore one and was apparently depicted one day wearing his watch on the cover of an…

Seiko Presage Chronograph SRQ019J1

Seiko Presage Chronograph SRQ019J1

If you like classical watches, the Seiko Presage Chronograph SRQ019J1 is an amazing find. A grand feu (kiln-fired) enamel dial, beautiful dial markings, absolute clarity and legibility, crocodile strap… But the best part is inside, with a movement designed and built by Seiko, with column-wheel chronograph control, and a vertical clutch. The most prestigious type…

Sinn 103 Ti UTC IFR

Sinn 103 Ti UTC IFR

The 103 Ti UTC IFR is a pilot’s chronograph by Sinn, complying to the new German standard DIN 8330 for pilot’s watches. It’s a fine combination of features, with time functions given optimum legibility by means of a simple layout and a judicious use of SuperLuminova. The chronograph can likewise be used in low light…

Sinn pilot’s chronograph 103-Ti IFR

Sinn pilot’s chronograph 103-Ti IFR

The 103-Ti IFR is a chronograph by Sinn that meets the specifications of German pilot’s watch standard DIN 8330, a new standard for pilot’s watches that came into operation in March 2016. DIN 8330 is based on the previous TESTAF technical standard developed by Sinn, and its formulation was devised by a team comprising Sinn,…