Slim d’Hermès L’heure impatiente

Slim d’Hermès L’heure impatiente

For ten years now, Hermès have been combining their French DNA with Swiss watchmaking, and their watches include complications that provide an alternative, ironic depiction of time. The Hermès vision is not about performance and the absolute control of time, but rather a more playful view of this fourth dimension. In 2011, Arceau Le temps…

Chanel Monsieur de CHANEL

Monsieur de Chanel is a beautiful watch, with Chanel’s first in-house movement, and an intriguing jumping hours and retrograde minutes display. Chanel launched Monsieur de Chanel in beige and white gold in 2016, and at Baselworld 2017 the brand presented the same watch with black enamel dial and a platinum case. Minimalist perfection It’s an…

MCT Dōdekal One, a new mechanical-digital display

Occasionally you see a watch that does something completely different. This is the area of “nouvelle horlogerie,” and Dōdekal One D110 by MCT, Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps, is the perfect example. The watch has a large digital hours display right at the centre, with the looks of the classic luminous digit that was a feature…

Cartier Panthère Joueuse

The Panthère Joueuse by Cartier is a lovely concept, superbly executed in terms of both jewellery and movement. A panther cub in diamonds, with two emerald eyes and touches of black in lacquer, rotates around the dial, the paw indicating the minutes. It is chasing after a ball, a single diamond, that marks the hours.…

Urwerk UR-106 Flower Power

Urwerk UR-106 Flower Power

The UR-106 Flower Power by Urwerk is a new version of the 106 watch with wandering hours, launched in 2015. The diamond-setting has been extended from the case and crown to include flowers incorporated into the wandering hour satellites. The case has a more feminine size with respect to the men’s versions but it’s still…

Urwerk UR-T8

Urwerk are celebrating their 20th anniversary this year, with the UR-T8. It’s like their previous UR 105 T-Rex, with a wandering hours display and a distinctive pyramid-studded carapace, but in the T8 the watch has been given two sides, one with the wandering hours left substantially open to view, and the other in which the…

Ressence Type 1 squared

Ressence Type 1 squared

The intelligent design that hallmarks all watches by Ressence can already be seen in the name. Type 12, giving the idea of the second version of type 1 Type 1.2), but also Type 1 Squared, expressing the fundamental difference, a cushion-shaped case that adds an element of tradition and makes it dressier. Other new features…

Voutilainen Vingt-8 ISO

Voutilainen Vingt-8 ISO

The Vingt-8 ISO by Kari Voutilainen does something unusual for a wristwatch: it presents a different way of telling the time. There are still the hour and minute hands, and a conventional hour scale, but the minutes scale at the edge of the dial rotates at the same speed as the hour hand. So every…

Hautlence Vortex Bronze

Hautlence Vortex Bronze

Hautlence is dedicated to making watches that tell time in a different way, as in this piece, Vortex Bronze. The Vortex was first presented in 2015 in a titanium case, and at SIHH 2017, Hautlence presented a new edition of 8 pieces in bronze. It has the same innovative HL2.0 movement, and similar case architecture.…

Christophe Claret Maestro

Christophe Claret Maestro

There is a lot of good stuff in this new watch Maestro by Christophe Claret. At his Manufacture in Le Locle, he makes movements for other brands such as Ulysse Nardin, and so he has no problem about rethinking calibres and giving them a totally new construction. In this piece, the cantilevered bridges based on…

Ulysse Nardin InnoVision 2

Ulysse Nardin InnoVision 2

Not many brands make concept watches – timepieces made purely for research and not for sale. Ulysse Nardin created their Innovision 1 watch in 2007, and the inventions in that piece were progressively transferred to their production watches. Ten years on, the brand intends to do the same with its InnoVision 2. It comprises ten…

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor Cobalt Micromelt

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor Cobalt MicroMelt

To say that the Excalibur Quatuor by Roger Dubuis is an example of thinking out of the box would be a negative exaggeration. It has literally exploded the box. Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon to constantly vary the position of the balance and even out the variations in rate caused by gravity. Roger Dubuis thought:…

Parmigiani Fleurier Ovale Pantographe Edition Or

Parmigiani Fleurier Ovale Pantographe Edition Or

The Ovale Pantographe by Parmigiani Fleurier is a watch unique in the world. Its hands change in length as they progress around the dial. Parmigiani first launched this concept in 2011 with the Parmigiani 114, later released as the Ovale Pantographe in 2013. This year, the Ovale Pantographe is available in two limited editions, in…

Ressence Type 1W White

Ressence Type 1 White

Most watch brands make products that are fundamentally similar to all the mechanical watches that have been made for the last two centuries. A few do something different, and create a product that represents a radical departure and that hallmarks all the brand’s products. Examples are HYT with their watches in which liquid is used…

Bradley by Eone

The Bradley by Eone

The Bradley is a quartz watch originally designed for blind people, but that is winning success with normal-sighted people as well for its unusual looks. It has a tactile front face with a ball bearing in a central groove indicating minutes. Another ball bearing rotating around a groove on the side of the case indicates…

Oris Altimeter Rega Limited Edition

Oris Altimeter Rega Limited Edition

The Oris Altimeter Rega Limited Edition is one of the very few pilot’s watches to have a specialist pilot’s function. Breva also make a watch with an altimeter, the Génie 02, but it has a slightly higher price tag: $132,000, against which the Oris watch compares very favourably at 3,950 Swiss francs. The Oris Altimeter…

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Astromystérieux

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Astromystérieux

The Rotonde de Cartier Astromystérieux is a contemporary mystery watch, in which not just the hands, but the entire movement is suspended on a series of transparent sapphire discs. It’s an extraordinary concept, difficult to express using just still images. Cartier’s video gives an idea of what it’s about, in their habitually understated style: In the…