Extra-fort is a name with a lot of history behind it: the model was originally launched in 1947, and it is still a best-seller for the brand. Over the years, it became associated with Eberhard’s motor-sports image, with sophisticated chronograph versions, but from about 2000 a classic three-hander was introduced, and this is the model that was presented with renewed design at Baselworld in 2015.
Pinstripe dial
The design solution adopted by Eberhard for the new version of the Extra-fort is that of vertical “frappée” lines in the central and outer parts of the dial, which contrasts with a smooth “azzurrée” ring onto which the applied Roman numerals and hour indices are attached. The pinstripe style is analogous to that of the Classima by Baume & Mercier, and the overall effect is of a smart watch, thin enough to be a dress watch. The dial is in three versions, silver-finish, black and grey. There is a date window at 6 o’clock.
Case and strap
The case is 40 mm in diameter and 10.07 mm thick, with a solid caseback in steel, and a screw-in crown, giving it a waterproof rating of 50 metres. The watch is mounted on a black or brown alligator strap, or a “Chalin” steel bracelet.
Movement
The movement is the Sellita SW200 “soigné”, mechanical with automatic winding, therefore a clone of the ETA 2824-2, providing a power reserve of 38 hours. The SW200 is at least as accurate as the ETA original, and while many non-ETA movement suppliers use Nivarox balance springs (therefore from a company within the Swatch Group empire), the SW200 has a balance spring made by another supplier, slightly thicker than the Nivarox version. The “soigné” indicates that the movement is made at high levels of precision and finish. Movements by external suppliers are generally classified as Standard when it is the basic movement with no decoration; as Elaboré when there is no decoration but precision is adjusted in three positions; and Top or Top Soigné (the “soigné” translates as quality or care) with movement decoration, Cotes de Genève and perlage on bridges and oscillating weight, blued screws, and precision adjusted in five positions to close to chronometer accuracy. The highest level of all is Chronometer.
References and prices
The Eberhard & Co. Extra‐fort Automatic, in the version with brown leather strap, costs €2,240
The model with steel bracelet costs €2,770.