This watch by Patek Philippe has all the timeless simplicity of the Calatrava case, coupled with a modern minimalism that makes it contemporary. It has a mechanical movement, manually-wound. The lugs are designed so that they extend visually across the bezel, which adds complexity to the diamond-setting. The diamonds are differently-sized as they reach the narrow angles near the lug. The way in which they are set is another Patek patent: a little gold is removed under each stone to increase its luminosity.
The lacquered dial is lovely for its flawless white. In this, as in many Patek Philippe watches, the brand demonstrates its uncompromising design by the absence of a date window. The dial is all for the leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, and the Clou de Paris hour-markers, each with three tiny pyramidal shapes in the gold matching the case. A beautiful variation on the Calatrava that first appeared in 1932, when its minimalist Bauhaus-style design immediately made it a classic.
The case is 33 mm in diameter, and beautifully slim at 7.19 mm thickness. It has the customary water resistance of 3 bar, 30 metres. The strap is in alligator, with a prong buckle in gold matching the case.
The calibre 215 PS movement is hand-wound, achieving the precision of -3/+2 seconds/day that makes it better than COSC chronometer standard. The finish as revealed by the sapphire caseback includes manually-applied Côtes de Genève, polished bevels, brass wheels with bevelled spokes, and deep red ruby bearings. The movement, with 130 components, is traditional in design but has the contemporary developments of the Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring. It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hertz), with a power reserve of 44 hours.
References and prices
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Timeless White Ref. 7122 is available in two versions, in white gold (reference 7122/200G) or rose gold (reference 7122/200R). Both versions cost €25,103.