The Nomos Glashütte Tetra Neomatik, reference 421, is striking for its shape. The watch has many other positive features. Its case is 33 mm by 33 mm, which may sound small, but it’s important to consider the diagonal which is 46.6 mm. At 6.3 mm thickness, it’s prodigiously slim. It is in stainless steel, with a display caseback fixed with four screws. Water resistance is 3 bar, 30 metres. The black strap is in hand-sewn Cordovan leather with a Nomos clasp.
Calibre DUW 3001
The watch’s slim profile is due to the movement, the in-house DUW 3001, just 3.2 mm thick. Development costs of the DUW 3001 reportedly reached 2.5 million euro, but the calibre incorporates a lot of innovation. Under the classic Glashütte three-quarter plate, many of the components share the same 1mm space, achieved by redesigning and redimensioning a lot of parts. Its energy efficiency reaches 94.2%, meaning that energy loss due to friction is just 5.8% (in traditional self-winding movements energy loss approaches 20%).
The watch has a proprietary escapement, the NOMOS Swing system, which utilizes a blued iron/nickel alloy balance spring from a German supplier. It allows the watch to reach chronometer-standard performance, enhanced by adjustment in six positions. The balance has a regulation system that also differs from most. Another feature is the rotor block system, which stops the oscillating weight from swinging when the mainspring is fully wound, reducing wear.
Other features are the stop-seconds function for precision time-setting, Incabloc shock protection, tempered blue screws, and decoration with Glashütte stripes – similar to Côtes de Genève, perhaps slightly wider – and NOMOS perlage.
Price of the Tetra Neomatik
The nicest thing about the Nomos Glashütte Tetra Neomatik, reference 421, is the price, €2,900 including tax. It can be purchased on the manufacturer’s website, free shipping, delivery time 2 months. The Tetra Neomatic Nachtblau, reference 422, with its dark blue dial, costs €2,980.