SIHH 2015 preview, Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas

A 1939 design sketch for the Cadenas bracelet, courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels

A 1939 design sketch for the Cadenas bracelet watch, courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels

Cadenas looks very different from most Van Cleef & Arpels creations, which are often very French and poetique in their inspiration. Cadenas is, on the other hand, a bracelet-watch that is tough and chunky. Like the Zip necklace, the design was probably inspired by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor – King Edward VIII who abdicated on 10 December 1936 after 11 months on the throne because of his refusal to renounce his love for divorcee Wallis Simpson.

This bracelet watch dates to 1935, and the central block holding the timepiece itself, and the curved loop linking it to the bracelet, look very much like a sturdy padlock. Or a robust anchor chain – cadenas is Spanish for chains. In the 1930s, apparently it wasn’t seemly for women to look at a watch to find out the time, and so there was a practical reason for hiding the watch face on a bracelet. At SIHH 2015, Van Cleef & Arpels will be presenting – along with other pieces – a new series of Cadenas jewellery watches. They have been updated with a greater visibility of the dial which now has hour indications, and an improved closing system with two small ceramic spheres that ensure a more secure buckle locking. The collection now comprises nine models, in white or yellow gold, some of which with pavé diamonds, one with pink sapphire, with alligator strap or flexible metal bracelet. The watch has a quartz movement. More info from http://www.vancleefarpels.com/

Below, the Cadenas watch with alligator strap (left), and Cadenas Bracelet Or (right) with mother-of-pearl dial:

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It’s difficult to appreciate the real three-dimensional appearance of the watch from the photos, and the drawings below provide a better idea:

Design drawing of the new Cadenas series of bracelet-watches, showing the Cadenas on the left, and the Cadenas Bracelet Or on the right

Design drawing of the new Cadenas series of bracelet-watches, showing the Cadenas on the left, and the Cadenas Bracelet Or on the right

 

In the photos below, Cadenas Sertie, with snow-set diamonds on the top of the case, in yellow and white gold, mother-of-pearl dial, alligator strap:

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Below, Cadenas Sertie Bracelet Or, with snow-set diamonds, in white and yellow gold, mother-of-pearl dial:

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Cadenas Sertie, with snow-set diamonds on the top face of the watch, in white or yellow gold

Cadenas Sertie, with snow-set diamonds on the top face of the watch, in white or yellow gold

 

Below, detail of the watch face:

cadenas_detail

 

Cadenas Sertie Bracelet Or, white and yellow gold versions

Cadenas Sertie Bracelet Or, white and yellow gold versions

 

Cadenas Pavée (left) and Cadenas Pavée Bracelet Or (right), with Princess-cut diamonds on the top of the watch case, and snow-set diamonds covering much of the rest

Cadenas Pavée (left) and Cadenas Pavée Bracelet Or (right), with Princess-cut diamonds on the top of the watch case, and snow-set diamonds covering much of the rest

 

Cadenas Pavée Saphirs Roses Bracelet Or, in pink gold with diamonds, pink sapphires, quartz movement

Cadenas Pavée Saphirs Roses Bracelet Or, in pink gold with diamonds, pink sapphires, quartz movement

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