Tudor retains its approach to marketing that hallmarked it at its origins: technical and reliable watches. While not everyone can be an underwater adventurer or explorer, Tudor taps into these theme with the Pelagos, a lifestyle watch that also has impressive diver’s watch performance. Most importantly, Pelagos shares (with North Flag) the big Tudor news of 2015: the first in-house movement, the MT5612. Tudor’s watches were traditionally powered by third-party ETA movements: this new development is the first step in achieving independence from external suppliers. The other significant feature of the Pelagos is its price, 4,200 Swiss francs. Exceptionally low for a watch with an in-house movement and an impressive array of technical features such as the automatically-adjusting bracelet and strap.
Case and dial
The 42-mm titanium and steel case is waterproof to 500 metres and at 9 o’clock it has a helium escape valve, a feature of professional diving watches and useful only when a helium-oxygen mixture is used. The crown is screw-down, and the caseback is in 316L stainless steel. The dial is designed for legibility, with square hour-markers, and hour and second hands with the characteristic “snowflake” extremity, a feature of Tudor diving watches from 1969 on. The square date window at 3 o’clock integrates well into the design, balanced by the rectangular hour markers at 9 and 6 o’clock. Hands and hour markers, and the markings on the unidirectionally-rotating ceramic bezel, are coated with luminescent paint that glows blue. The watch has a titanium bracelet with steel folding clasp, with an auto-adjustable spring mechanism that allows for wrist expansion and contraction, with a maximum excursion of 4 mm, during a dive. A rubber strap is also supplied, with another extension system so that it can be worn with different types of diving suit. Below, the luminescence colour:
The Pelagos is available in two colours, matt black and matt blue. The brushed titanium case finish gives it an attractive, technological look, in which the all-matt appearance represents a new house style, shared with North Flag, Fastrider and Grantour.
The new calibre Tudor MT5612 has a power reserve of about 70 hours, a significant figure because it means that it keeps on going during the weekend: if you take it off on Friday evening and put it back on on Monday morning, it will still be running. It provides a date display that jumps instantaneously and that doesn’t have a time sector during which it can’t be adjusted. The watch has the stop-second function for precision time-setting. The movement runs at 4 Hertz (28,800 vph), and it has a silicon balance spring for improved resistance to magnetic fields. It is COSC-certified, another first for Tudor watches. The certification guarantees a precision of +/- 5 secs per day, but in actual fact, says the brand, it reaches +/- 3 secs per day.
References and price
The Tudor Pelagos is made in two references, 25600TB (blue) and 25600TN (black). The price is 4,200 Swiss francs.