The new Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel has a lot that is traditional Tudor, and some features that are innovative for the brand. The bezel is new, in stainless steel with circular brushed finish. For the first time on a Black Bay watch, it has a date window. This will make it popular with people who like the divers’ look but also appreciate an everyday timepiece. The watch has the modern MT5612 calibre, a variation of the movement that Tudor presented in 2015, their first fully in-house movement, used on the Tudor North Flag. It has a steel bracelet featuring “riveted” links that create a link with 1950s and ‘60s Tudor watches.
The Black Bay Steel looks simple but it is packed with details referring to Tudor’s history: the touches of red on the bezel triangle and depth specification, the domed dial and watchglass, the shape of the hands (so-called “snowflake”) and hour markers, and the large, circular crown with a black enamel Tudor rose and a black anodised aluminium winding crown tube. The case is 41 mm in diameter, with polished and satin finish. The watch is waterproof to 200 metres.
Riveted bracelet and other strap options
In addition to the rivets, the links have a distinctive stepped construction, another feature from the early watches. Back in the 1950s, the links were hollow: in the new watches, they are solid. The watch is also available with a black aged leather strap with folding clasp. Whichever you prefer, in the box you also receive a khaki green fabric strap. This has an attractive texture, and it is made using the Jacquard technique by a 150-year-old family firm from France.
The MT5612 calibre has been modified with respect to the movement used for the Tudor North Flag, by adding the date function. Other features remain the same: 70 hours power reserve, variable inertia balance with silicon balance spring held in place by a traversing bridge for greater strength and reliability, and COSC certification. It runs at 4 Hertz. The date can be adjusted quickly from the crown, at all times of day – in other words, there is no time at which changing the date is inadvisable. The movement has the stop seconds for precise time setting.
Black Bay Steel price and reference
The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel is reference 79730. The version with steel bracelet costs 3,600 Swiss francs (VAT included), $3,850, £2,580, the version with leather strap costs 3,300 Swiss francs, $3,475, £2,370. It has been available in boutiques from June 2017.