The 170th Anniversary Limited Edition Classico Manufacture by Ulysse Nardin has a dial layout that reflects the earliest pocket watches, with subdial at 6 o’clock. Blue is still very much the watch fashion colour and so the hands and strap are a bright mid-sea blue. The date is carefully camouflaged in the continuous seconds subdial to ensure that it doesn’t disturb the overall balance. The Roman numerals are slender and elegant.
The case is in steel, 40mm in diameter and slim at 9.6mm, so even though it couldn’t be described as a dress watch, it slips easily under a shirt cuff. It has the standard water resistance of 3 bar, 30 metres (no swimming or showering). The leather strap has a tang buckle. The dial is brilliant white grand feu enamel, made by Donzé Cadrans, a company that is part of the Ulyssse Nardin group and that specializes in this technique in which layers of powder enamel are placed on the dial base and fired at temperatures approaching those used for ceramics – in this case between 760 and 900°C.
The movement of the Classico Manufacture was designed and built in-house by Ulysse Nardin. The UN-320 Calibre has 39 jewels, and a silicium hairspring and anchor escapement for improved magnetic resistance and isochronicity. It is self-winding, runs at 21,800 vibrations per hour (3 Hertz) and provides about 48 hours power reserve. The crown can be used to set the date forwards or back rapidly, and it also provides the stop-seconds function for precision time-setting. The movement can be viewed through the sapphire caseback. I’d love to know more about the movement – why so many jewels? – and find a caseback image. If I succeed, I’ll update the pos.
Reference and price
The 170th Anniversary Limited Edition Classico Manufacture by Ulysse Nardin, reference 3203-136LE-2/E0, costs €8,500.