These three watches are recreations of the first Grand Seiko dating back to 1960. They are in steel, yellow gold and platinum, and their size – 38 mm in diameter, and about 11 mm thick – makes them superb dress watches – at least the steel and platinum versions. There is only one problem: price. They are all limited editions, with the hand-wound 9S64 movement, but even so, a starting price of €5,000 for the steel version is rather expensive.
Grand Seiko stand-alone
Like the first 1960 Grand Seiko, these three watches are branded just Grand Seiko, without the name Seiko on the dial. Up until now, Grand Seiko watches had both Seiko and Grand Seiko logos. The case is slim, and typically 1960s with its domed watchglass and slightly convex dial. The gold and platinum versions are 10.7 mm thick, and the steel version is 11.2 mm thick. Water resistance is the standard 3 atm, 30 metres, resistant to rain and splashes only. The watches have an anti-magnetic rating of 4,800 amperes per metre.
Caseback with Grand Seiko emblem
The caseback has the Grand Seiko emblem at the centre, in yellow gold on the steel version, and in the same metals as the case in the yellow gold and platinum versions. Below, the caseback of the platinum version.
Calibre 9S64 is manually-wound, with 24 jewels and a 72-hour power reserve. Three days is an excellent figure for power reserve, and Seiko achieve it by means of a thinner and longer mainspring made of the brand’s proprietary alloy SPRON510. The calibre runs at 4 Hertz, 28,800 vibrations per hour, with balance spring made of another recently-developed alloy, SPRON610, with high shock resistance and anti-magnetic properties. The escape wheel and pallet fork are manufactured using the “micro electro mechanical system.” These technical developments enable an excellent precision, -3 to +5 seconds per day, while the platinum model is regulated to -1/+5 maximum deviation per day. Each piece’s performance is documented by an Inspection Certificate included with the watch.
Grand Seiko re-creation model in steel
This watch is reference SBGW 253, a limited edition of 1,960 pieces. It costs €5,000, $5,700.
Grand Seiko re-creation model in yellow gold
This watch is reference SBGW 252, a limited edition of 353 pieces. It costs €18,000, $17,200
Grand Seiko re-creation model in platinum
This watch is reference SBGW 251, a limited edition of 136 pieces. It costs €30,000, $30,600.