Emile Chouriet’s clients are predominantly Chinese, as the vast majority of the brand’s retail outlets are in China, and the owner and CEO is Chinese. But Emile Chouriet have a factory in Geneva, and they are dedicating a lot of effort to reinforcing the Swissness of their watches. Soleos Lady 30 mm has Emile Chouriet’s first in-house movement, and the brand now has the capacity to make its own balance springs, the most delicate part of the calibre.
Two sizes, 30 and 40 mm
Soleos is a nice design, in two sizes, 30 mm for women and a 40 mm version which could be considered as unisex. Its dial is reminiscent of the Rolex Cellini with its marked guilloché-type fluting, and it has a fluted bezel and a graceful crown which also recall the Cellini. The case is 30 mm in diameter and 10 mm thick, 3 atm water resistance, on a leather strap or stainless steel bracelet.
The self-winding EC5318 movement used in the 30mm versions of Soleos is made in-house, and it can be seen through the sapphire caseback. The balance runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hertz, and the calibre provides a 45-hour power reserve. It has 27 jewels, 137 components, including a Chouriet Swiss lever escapement and a Chouriet balance wheel and spring.
Emile Chouriet Soleos prices and references
A number of different references are available, with silver or blue dial, 30 or 40 mm diameter, leather strap or bracelet. Reference 19.1155.L.184.108.40.206 (30 mm, silver dial, leather strap) costs €1,000; reference 19.1155.L.220.127.116.11 (30 mm, silver dial, steel bracelet) also costs €1,000. The 40mm versions have a different movement, EC9316, not in-house, and they all cost €1,080. They are 08.1155.G.18.104.22.168 (silver dial, leather strap); 08.1155.G.22.214.171.124 (silver dial, steel bracelet), 08.1155.G.126.96.36.199 (blue dial, blue leather strap) and 08.1155.G.188.8.131.52 (blue dial, steel bracelet). Further information from the Emile Chouriet website.