de Grisogono New Retro

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1950s Odeon wall clock, photo courtesy of www.suigeneris-online.co.uk

1950s Odeon wall clock, photo courtesy of www.suigeneris-online.co.uk

The 1950s style of this piece is generated by the rectangular format – which, according to de Grisogono founder and designer Fawaz Gruosi, was inspired by a cigarette case – and the style of the numerals. It’s a brilliant touch just having the central six numerals visible on the rectangular dial, as if the 11, 12 and 1, and the 5, 6 and 7, were there, but hidden underneath the bezel, and it’s also logical to place the crown on top of the case instead of on the side. The case is large, 55 mm wide, 44 mm from top to bottom and 12 mm thick, with rectangular curved sapphire glass both on top and revealing the movement underneath. The dial doesn’t extend laterally for the whole width, leaving a long rectangular slot on both sides, so that the narrow band of dark empty space heightens contrast and three-dimensionality, particularly in the white-dial version. The watch is available in a range of finishes, with cases in white or rose gold, or black PVD, dials in vintage white, black, or graded green, and two gem-set coloured versions. The strap is in alligator leather. Water resistance is 30 metres.

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Movement

The watch is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement, the DG 10-01 calibre, and the oscillating weight has openwork scroll decoration. It runs at 28,800 vph (4 Hertz) and has a power reserve of 42 hours. De Grisogono don’t make their own movements: the DG 10-01 could be a modified ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200.

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Price

The watches are priced from 14,000 Swiss francs for the PVD-coated version to 26,800 Swiss francs for the white and rose gold versions, and more for the jewelled references.

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