H. Moser’s first perpetual calendar won the GPHG Grand Prix in 2006; the watch was relaunched in 2013, and it is still a fresh-looking piece in the realm of perpetual calendars that usually have lots of subdials and windows. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, a version launched in 2015 at about the same time as the market release of the Apple Watch (an event that led to the H. Moser Swiss Alp watch), is incredible for its clean-honed dial, which looks very much like a three-hand watch with oversize date window. It is slim enough (11.1 mm thick, 40.8 mm diameter) to be a dress watch. The only sign of the calendar is the extra, very short hand at the centre of the dial showing the months, using the hours as indicators. A brilliant minimalist insight, and intelligent, user-friendly design: after all, surely the important things you need to know are the time and the date, because you already know the month and year. So the dial provides time and date with absolute clarity, and, with the months hand, discreetly lets you know that it is taking care of all the calculations so you know you won’t have to adjust the date. The other indication on the dial is at 9 o’clock, with a power reserve indicator that tells you when the watch needs rewinding. Years and leap year cycle are shown on the caseback.
In-house movement, excellent power reserve
The true innovation is the HMC 341 movement, designed and built in-house, which is exceptional in that the calendar can be adjusted backwards or forwards at any time, without risking damage to the mechanism. Most calendar watches come with instructions not to adjust the date for a few hours around midnight, and perpetual calendar watches usually have a series of pushers inset into the caseband so that you can adjust each setting individually. In the Funky Blue, all adjustments are made using the crown. The movement runs at 2.5 Hertz, 18,000 vph, which, along with the double mainspring barrel, helps give the watch a power reserve of at least seven days. Other important features are the brand’s patented Straumann Hairspring, and the interchangeable escapement. The latter makes maintenance easier.
Case and strap
The watch has a white gold case and a transparent sapphire caseback. The dial is sky blue fume with sunburst pattern, with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The strap is in hand-stitched kudu, a beige leather with a rustic, aged finish, with white gold folding clasp.
Reference and price
The H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, reference 1341-0207, costs 54,000 Swiss francs.