H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue

H. Moser’s first perpetual calendar won the GPHG Grand Prix in 2006; the watch was relaunched in 2013, and it is still a fresh-looking piece in the realm of perpetual calendars that usually have lots of subdials and windows. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, a version launched in 2015 at about the same time…

Hublot Big Bang Chrono Perpetual Calendar

For the 10th anniversary of the Big Bang Chronograph, Hublot have presented their first perpetual calendar chronograph, a watch that also includes a chronograph and a moon phase display. The information is combined on the dial in a design that expresses complexity, with skeletonized movement visible beneath the sapphire dial. The subdials combine different functions…

Geo. Graham Tourbillon Orrery

A brief digression on a watch that took me by surprise, that was presented in 2013 as a limited edition, that is a type that I think we will see more of over the next few years. Eric Loth founded his company Graham in 1995, and though I can’t help being a bit suspicious of…

Ulysse Nardin Marine Perpetual

In this watch, Ulysse Nardin does a lot of new stuff and presents it with a remarkable degree of understatement. Each of the watches is encircled by baguette diamonds, or coloured sapphires, but the particular setting technique and the fact that the stainless steel case, 45.8 mm in diameter, is coated in matt black rubber…

Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar with Humidor

The Blancpain Quantième Perpétuel 8 Jours, a perpetual calendar watch that keeps track of everything from seconds through to leap years, was presented in 2014, and it is now available in Blancpain boutiques. It has the exceptional power reserve of 192 hours, the eight days of its name, and it has another user-friendly characteristic: the…

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Tecnica Carpe

This is a remarkable watch, a one-off piece by Parmigiani Fleurier that combines beautiful decorative techniques with a movement combining a minute repeater, a chronograph, a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. Just one made. The artistic side, with the white gold sculpted carp on a grande feu enamelled dial, is a tribute to sculptor and…

IWC Portugieser Grande Complication

As you can see from a comparison (above, the 2015 version on the left, the 2010 version on the right), the new reference IW3776 presented at SIHH in January by IWC Schaffhausen is not all that different from the previous version. The movement is the same 79091 calibre used in the 2010 Reference IW3774. The…

Baselworld 2015 highlights – Slim d’Hermès Perpetual Calendar

At Baselworld 2015 I was expecting from Hermès another deliciously ironic piece such as last year’s L’Heure Masquée, but the brand seems to have decided that they have reached the end of the line of those quirky masterpieces and have moved in another direction. I was pleasantly surprised. Simplicity and a new typeface The major launch…

Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar Jewellery

The Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar Jewellery was first presented in August 2014 in Shanghai and so it was also part of Montblanc’s watches highlighted at SIHH in January 2015. It is the women’s version of the men’s perpetual calendar watch that caused a real surprise at SIHH in 2014, becoming the world’s most accessible perpetual…

Montblanc launches the Bohème collection in Shanghai

Bohème is the name of the new Montblanc collection of women’s watches, jewellery and pens, launched in Shanghai on 28 August 2014. CEO Jérome Lambert, with personalities Chris Hemsworth, Elsa Pataky, Ana Beatriz Barros, Chiara Ferragni, Dennis Nieh, Liu Tao, Dong Xuan, and the new Brand Ambassador Gwai Lun Mei, were present at the event,…

A versatile perpetual calendar from Bovet

It can be a wristwatch, a pocket watch, or a table watch, and the conversion from one pattern to another is so simple that the user can do it himself or herself without any tools. Bovet has presented its Amadeo Fleurier Virtuoso III 5-Day Tourbillon with Retrograde Perpetual Calendar. Dial indications are very clear, with…

Quantième Perpétuel à Équation by Greubel & Forsey

The “Équation” in the watch’s name is the Equation of time, a relatively rare complication but one that is close to the heart of mechanical watchmaking. The great 19th-century watchmakers were often struck by the analogies between the instruments that they made and the sun, moon and planets, whose movements are like a gigantic mechanism…

A. Lange & Söhne and the art of discretion

A. Lange & Söhne create brilliant, complex watches, but they don’t shout about it. One of the two great German watch brands (with Glashütte Original) based in Glashütte, near Dresden, A. Lange & Söhne delights its fans and collectors with watches whose complexity of functions is accompanied by wonderful movements and understated dial design. In…