The Royal Oak is a true legend in watchmaking, from its design – created by Gérald Genta in one night (the story goes), inspired by an old-fashioned diving helmet attached to a diving suit with screws – to its name, taken from a series of eight Royal Navy warships, in turn named after an old…
There are some chronographs whose dial is designed specifically to facilitate readings of elapsed time. On the other hand there are a few in which the dial makes it difficult or impossible to measure a span of time. The chronograph function becomes a purely decorative motif, and the pushers a sort of anti-stress game. All…
Things have changed at the top. Just a few years ago, virtually all high-end Swiss watch brands were enjoying double-digit growth. Already at the start of this year Richemont cut watchmaking jobs in Switzerland, affecting principally Cartier, Vacheron Constantin and Piaget, and, according to trade union reports, there are plans to axe another 200 jobs,…
For any brand, success or failure depends on brand credibility, the right product, and the right price. Oris is not one of the best-known names in watchmaking, but it has a lot of brand value, carefully nurtured by a move towards vertical integration – making more and more of its product components in-house. The Oris…
At 51 mm diameter, this is certainly a large watch, but after all, Oris call it a tool watch, and it was born to be underwater, strapped over a wet suit. It is a new version of the ProDiver Chronograph introduced in 2009. It has a 100 bar/1,000 metre water resistance, achieved by means of…
You could say that Longines is becoming specialized in monopusher chronographs. The Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 is a variant on a chronograph already in the collection, featuring the crown-wheel movement developed exclusively for Longines by ETA, the movement constructing company that, like Longines, is now part of Swatch Group. Avigation Type A-7 has a…
My instinct is not to write about men’s watches with quartz movements, but Curv by Bulova, presented at Baselworld in March 2016, has some significant features. The curved case is nothing new, but this watch has some extra features that are worth a comment. The watch has a transparent caseback, displaying the quartz movement. I…
Looks familiar? The Steinhart Ocean One Vintage Chronograph rings a bell, because it is a sort of tribute to the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Reference 6239, in the version that became known as the Paul Newman Daytona, because the actor wore one and was apparently depicted one day wearing his watch on the cover of an…
If you like classical watches, the Seiko Presage Chronograph SRQ019J1 is an amazing find. A grand feu (kiln-fired) enamel dial, beautiful dial markings, absolute clarity and legibility, crocodile strap… But the best part is inside, with a movement designed and built by Seiko, with column-wheel chronograph control, and a vertical clutch. The most prestigious type…
The 103 Ti UTC IFR is a pilot’s chronograph by Sinn, complying to the new German standard DIN 8330 for pilot’s watches. It’s a fine combination of features, with time functions given optimum legibility by means of a simple layout and a judicious use of SuperLuminova. The chronograph can likewise be used in low light…
The 103-Ti IFR is a chronograph by Sinn that meets the specifications of German pilot’s watch standard DIN 8330, a new standard for pilot’s watches that came into operation in March 2016. DIN 8330 is based on the previous TESTAF technical standard developed by Sinn, and its formulation was devised by a team comprising Sinn,…
Baume & Mercier have been working with Carroll Shelby’s sports car enterprise since 2015. The two limited-edition Capeland Shelby Cobra 1963 watches celebrate one of the Shelby Cobra models, the CSX2128 built for the 1963 12 Hours of Sebring race. The car was immediately recognizable for its yellow stripes, and it won an impressive number…
Clifton is Baume & Mercier’s “expertise” range, with watches based on more complex movements. It has a busy dial, and a steel case 43 mm in diameter and 15 mm thick, with areas of high polish contrasting with brushed steel. It is enhanced by the alligator strap, with curved springbars that enhance the shape of…
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Metrgraphe is part of the Métro collection. The names that Parmigiani gives to its watches are often rather unusual (different to the long succession of descriptive words that many brands use, such as “Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon”), and “Metrographe” was coined to give the watch an urban, metropolitan,…
The Bell & Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon Chronograph is one of the three watches that the brand has presented in a marine chronometer style. Its complex square case is 45 mm in size, made in rose gold and rosewood, evoking the 19th century chronometers used on board ships. It has the commendable water resistance rating of…
The Bell & Ross BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph is one of the three pieces that the brand have released on a marine theme, a departure from the aviation spirit on which they built their reputation. Like the Bell & Ross Instrument de Marine, this watch has a case made of bronze and rosewood, with titanium used…
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback Ocean Commitment II is a watch celebrating the brand’s efforts in the area of ocean environmental protection and research. It first appeared as a limited edition watch in 2014. It introduced a new concept of limited edition watches, providing purchasers not only with a rare piece, but making…
Just 17 watches. The Chopard Superfast Porsche Motorsport 919 Limited Victory Edition is similar in concept to the Chopard Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition, with the same movement. It has a more elaborate design, with a rose gold bezel, and as a result it costs about €4,000 more. It celebrates the Porsche Motorsport team…
The Grand Prix de Monaco is held every two years and sees vintage racing cars competing on the Monaco Formula 1 circuit. Every two years since 2002, Chopard has been the sponsor and timekeeper for the event, and has presented a limited-edition watch celebrating the race. The Chopard Grand Prix de Monaco Historique 2016 Race…
The new version of the Mido Commander Chronometer Limited Edition is similar to last year’s piece, but with different dial colours, and now with chronometer certification. Below the day and date, the lettering “Commander Automatic” has been replaced by “Chronometer Automatic.” The watch is Mido’s only piece with chronometer certification. The dial has distinctive looks…