Metropolis by Louis Moinet, presented in Geneva in January 2017, expresses a move by the company headed by Jean-Marie Schaller to create something more contemporary, at a lower price point than their previous watches. Schaller calls Metropolis an “urban watch,” with a very architectural structure. The case frames a series of levels, with the dial…
In 2016 and 2017, Peter Speake-Marin is presenting several pieces in small editions, in order to express many ideas without expanding the existing collection. At SIHH in Geneva in January 2017, the Wing Commander was presented in two limited editions, each 28 pieces, with white dials (an innovation with respect to previous Wing Commander models…
Laurent Ferrier trained at the Geneva school of watchmaking, and, like all watchmakers, completed the course by constructing his own “school piece.” It expressed his ambition of perpetuating fine 19th century watchmaking. In the Galet Micro-Rotor Montre Ecole, Laurent Ferrier celebrates that piece, and translates the pebble-like rounded smoothness of pocket watches into a wristwatch.…
The Cosmic Green by H. Moser is another expression of the brand’s stance with respect to the “Swiss Made” concept, and the fact that legislation on use of this label doesn’t offer much of a guarantee to customers buying a watch. Neither does it help people working in the Swiss watch industry. I don’t think…
The Venturer Small Seconds XL Paramagnetic by H. Moser & Cie. has a balance spring made from the new alloy PE5000, developed by the company Precision Engineering AG, part of Moser Watch Holding. PE5000 is shock-resistant and paramagnetic, and, after a development period of 7 years, it is now being used in a watch for…
A mechanical watch is always something of a luxury, but there are some objects out there that enable you to discover the pleasure of co-habiting with something that can live at least as long as you will, that has its own tiny beating heart, and that will never need a new battery. Here are some…
Piaget’s Polo has a long history. It was released in 1979, a watch in solid gold with a distinctive appearance provided by the stripes that continued from the bracelet over the dial. New Polo S and its distinctive case The new Polo S is very different, because it is in steel, and has a totally…
The Bell & Ross BR S Rose Gold, launched for Christmas 2016, transforms the brand’s instrument-panel aesthetic into a high-end pink gold piece that recalls Bulgari, with its clean design and simple baton hour markers. A nice touch is the date window, which, even though it is at 4.30, has upright figures (usually, when a…
Cartier are the number 3 watch brand in the world, after Rolex and Omega, and ahead of Longines and Tissot. Perhaps the secret of Cartier’s success is shown by their new watch Drive, launched in seven variations, with cases starting in steel and reaching pink gold, from time-only to flying tourbillion, and prices starting from…
U-Boat makes big watches with features that include large chunky leather strap, crown protector, left-hand crown, and a dial with bold, luminous indications. Do they remind you of anything? Panerai of course. U-Boat watches are created by Italian designer Italo Fontana, whose company is based in Gragnano, not far from Lucca in Tuscany, and so…
SevenFriday specializes in watches with simple movements made to look complicated by means of an industrial design aesthetic. The latest piece, Q3/01, has a regulator-type minute hand, hours shown on a 24-hour scale, and a second hand with three short hands of different colours, red, green and yellow, read one after another on a 20-second…
The Zinvo Blade was introduced last year at a very low price – $199 – and this year there are several new variants. The basic price is now $280, €258, but, considering that it’s a mechanical watch, it is still very “accessible luxury” as the brand defines their mission. That is, if you think that…
Bulova are famous today for their high-beat quartz movements, and historically for their Accutrons used by NASA, but the new watches presented in 2016 include the Bulova Automatic, with deconstructed dial and transparent caseback. It has a steel case with rose gold ionic plating, 43 mm in diameter, 12 mm thick, water resistance 100 metres.…
The Quai des Bergues is the first watch made by Czapek. Rhymes with Patek. The watch is unusual because it has to be wound on Sundays. An unusual requirement in today’s age of maximum personal liberty. But let’s go back to the beginning. Why does the name Czapek ring a bell? Because Franciszek Czapek, born…
The Nomos Glashütte Tetra Neomatik, reference 421, is striking for its shape. The watch has many other positive features. Its case is 33 mm by 33 mm, which may sound small, but it’s important to consider the diagonal which is 46.6 mm. At 6.3 mm thickness, it’s prodigiously slim. It is in stainless steel, with…
Bell & Ross achieve success for their higher-priced watches (their core business is from $2,000 to $6,000) by ensuring that demand is always higher than supply. Demand comes from quality design and originality, supply is restricted by limiting production. This piece, BR 01 Instrument de Marine, is a good example. Bell & Ross are tapping…
Just writing about a watch by A. Lange & Söhne gives me gooseflesh. Their pieces have a combination of technical creativity, watchmaking artistry and aesthetic discretion that is second to none. From the front, you have no idea of the marvels inside, and even when you turn it over, there are just a few beguiling…
The name of the watch, Classic Manufacture, indicates that the movement is made in-house by Frederique Constant, which has had this capability since 2004. The FC-710 calibre, introduced in 2012 as the entry-level movement for the Manufacture Collection, is used in these two new watches with classic dial design. The narrow Roman numerals and the…
Tiffany returned to watchmaking on 2 April 2015, with the CT60 collection of mechanical watches. The most interesting piece in that collection was the Tiffany East West, a rectangular watch with a case at 90° with respect to the usual orientation. Last year’s pieces were exclusively quartz watches. This year, the Tiffany East West has…
There’s figurative art, and there are figurative watches. This new watch by Chopard reflects Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s passion for vintage and classic cars, and in particular for the atmosphere of the Mille Miglia rally, a race that Chopard has been deeply involved with since 1988. The dial is great. The seconds hand has the red-white speedometer…