Cartier Panthère Joueuse

The Panthère Joueuse by Cartier is a lovely concept, superbly executed in terms of both jewellery and movement. A panther cub in diamonds, with two emerald eyes and touches of black in lacquer, rotates around the dial, the paw indicating the minutes. It is chasing after a ball, a single diamond, that marks the hours.…

Baume & Mercier Shelby Cobra Limited Edition 10344

Baume & Mercier Shelby Cobra Limited Edition

The Baume & Mercier Shelby Cobra Limited Edition reference M0A10344 is a flyback chronograph and a tribute to the Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupé car. It’s a good-looking piece, undoubtedly the most distinctive watch in Baume & Mercier’s 2017 collection. Like previous versions of the flyback chronograph in the Capeland series, this watch is fairly expensive…

Baume & Mercier Clifton Club

Baume & Mercier Clifton Club

The Clifton Club by Baume & Mercier is one of a relatively new breed, sports watches with the connotations of a diver’s watch, but intended for everyday use. Baume & Mercier have recently shown a great deal of attention to sociological aspects, with watches designed specifically as gifts for special occasions. With the Clifton Club…

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold

Audemars Piguet celebrates the 40th anniversary of the women’s Royal Oak with a new jewellery technique, frosted gold. It’s also a story of three designers: Gérald Genta, who created the first Royal Oak in 1972, Jacqueline Dimier, the designer who redesigned Genta’s watch in a version for women, and Carolina Bucci, contemporary jewellery designer from…

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar

Watches today are becoming chunkier and more colourful, moving away from the appearance typical of a functional, scientific, practical timepiece. This is not the case for A. Lange & Söhne, whose watches retain their timeless, sober style, and, whatever their value, remain pieces that could be worn during everyday life without raising eyebrows. They are…

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 31

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 31

In 2007, when it was introduced, the Lange 31 was the world record holder for power reserve in a mechanical watch, reaching 31 days, 744 hours. Since then, other watches have exceeded this, but the Lange 31 is still the watch with a classic case design having the highest power reserve. It’s large, 46 mm…

At last, a new chronograph layout, by Fabergé

Baselworld is approaching, and all the watch nerds going there know that we’re going to see the usual swathe of chronographs based on the Valjoux 7750 calibre, which has been with us since 1973 and shows no signs of wanting to retire. This movement has helped perpetuate the chronograph layout with two or three subdials,…

Manufacture Royale 1770 Flying Tourbillon Openwork

With the 1770 Flying Tourbillon Openwork, Manufacture Royale gives the existing Androgyne Royale a different, even more elemental case. While in the Androgyne Royale there were an indication of the hours by means of 12 screws on the bezel, in the new 1770 Flying Tourbillon watch for 2017, the case is smooth and circular, and…

Bovet Récital 19 Miss Dimier

Bovet Récital 19 Miss Dimier

Sometimes you see a timepiece that has a detail that lifts it above the vast ocean of watches. Bovet 1822 offers a good example with the Récital 19 Miss Dimier, an elliptical watch with a diamond-set bezel, designed specifically for women. The touch of brilliance is in the hour and minute hands, which are designed…

Louis Moinet Metropolis, pink gold

Louis Moinet Metropolis

Metropolis by Louis Moinet, presented in Geneva in January 2017, expresses a move by the company headed by Jean-Marie Schaller to create something more contemporary, at a lower price point than their previous watches. Schaller calls Metropolis an “urban watch,” with a very architectural structure. The case frames a series of levels, with the dial…

Urwerk UR-106 Flower Power

Urwerk UR-106 Flower Power

The UR-106 Flower Power by Urwerk is a new version of the 106 watch with wandering hours, launched in 2015. The diamond-setting has been extended from the case and crown to include flowers incorporated into the wandering hour satellites. The case has a more feminine size with respect to the men’s versions but it’s still…

Urwerk UR-T8

Urwerk are celebrating their 20th anniversary this year, with the UR-T8. It’s like their previous UR 105 T-Rex, with a wandering hours display and a distinctive pyramid-studded carapace, but in the T8 the watch has been given two sides, one with the wandering hours left substantially open to view, and the other in which the…

Speake-Marin New Brown Serpent Calendar

Speake-Marin New Brown Serpent Calendar

A new version of a watch that is one of the best-selling models in the Speake-Marin collection, the 2017 New Brown Serpent Calendar has the same very three-dimensional dial of its predecessors, with an enlarged, convex calendar chapter ring, and now with a snailed-finish brown ring for the hours. All the rest of the habitually…

Speake-Marin Black Velsheda Gothic

The Velsheda is one of Peter Speake-Marin’s most distinctive watches, with its single hand, an hour hand, with which you can read the time on the scale with 5-minute markings. In January 2017, Speake-Marin presented the Black Velsheda Gothic, for the first time with a black enamel dial. As in the previous version of the…

Speake-Marin Spirit Wing Commander

Speake-Marin Spirit Wing Commander, blue and brown

In 2016 and 2017, Peter Speake-Marin is presenting several pieces in small editions, in order to express many ideas without expanding the existing collection. At SIHH in Geneva in January 2017, the Wing Commander was presented in two limited editions, each 28 pieces, with white dials (an innovation with respect to previous Wing Commander models…

Speake-Marin Crazy Skulls

Speake-Marin Crazy Skulls

The Speake-Marin Crazy Skulls is a surprising watch, enormously ambitious, because it combines two of the most complex complications of all, the tourbillon and the minute repeater, with an animated dial that tells a story of love and death. There are a lot of design ideas here. It’s a notable achievement for a brand founded…