Steinhart Marine Chronometer 44, Unitas 6498-1 calibre

Top ten hand-wound watches under €1,500

A mechanical watch is a throwback to a different age, the age before electronics, when watchmakers were engaged in the struggle to turn a heap of metal into a machine that would vibrate at a constant frequency whatever the position, temperature and circumstances. Today a mechanical watch is itself a distinctive product. Even more so…

Mansfield Time Automatica One

Mansfield Time Automatica One

Mansfield Time, a young kickstarter company, makes a very eye-catching, large men’s watch named Automatica One, 43 mm in diameter with stainless steel case, which combines several themes. It has diving-watch water resistance, 200 metres, but its looks are those of a pilot’s watch. There is a lot of IWC, with the stubby sword-type hands,…

Berthet

Interview with Pierre Berthet, CEO of Berthet

Berthet, French watchmaking company founded in 1888, celebrates its 130th anniversary this year. In addition to making its own watches, it supplies components to many other watch brands. The characteristics of its timepieces – hand-wound movements, original complications, in-house skeletonization, affordable prices – make Berthet a distinctive brand with a powerful identity. We had the…

Corum Big Magical Bubble Djibril Cissé

Corum Big Magical Bubble Djibril Cissé

Bubble is an important part of Corum‘s heritage and every year many new versions of this watch are issued. With their big domed sapphire watchglass, they are always large and bold. With a 52 mm case, over 20 mm thick, it’s not the discreet dress watch that slides under your shirt. More than most, it’s…

Cartier Révélation d’une Panthère

Cartier Révélation d’une Panthère

One of the absolute highlights of SIHH – and the entire world of watchmaking – in 2018, Révélation d’une Panthère by Cartier is not so much a watch as a performance. Above the hands and the dial, instead of the usual sapphire watchglass, there is a flat sapphire capsule containing 900 tiny gold beads, in…

Santos de Cartier

The new Santos by Cartier

Santos was the first pilot’s watch, possibly the first watch with a square case, the first watch with exposed screws on the bezel, and the first watch to have a leather strap.

Louis Erard Heritage Classic Chronograph

The new Heritage Classic Chronograph watches by Louis Erard are exactly what their name says: classic chronographs. This family of watches has a sober, discreet design, with two subdials for the chronograph minutes and hours, and the choice of no running seconds, or a cross-form subdial for running seconds at 9 o’clock. The dial is…

Bulova Aerojet 98A187

Bulova Aerojet 98A187

The Bulova Aerojet 98A187 was recently advertised with a full-page ad in an Italian newspaper, with the price displayed as €279. It shows that price is no longer a massive problem for people looking for an automatic watch: it’s affordable for most, and from a big brand. The new Aerojet 98A187 is based on a…

Berthet Arte Noir Skeleton

Berthet company profile

Company profile: Berthet was founded by Joseph Berthet, son of a teacher, born in Savoie. He learnt watchmaking in Switzerland over the course of about 12 years before returning to Charmauvillers, close to the Swiss border, in 1877, setting up his own watchmaking workshop in 1888. He was joined by his brother and his three…

Berthet Agilis reference H43RETRO

Berthet Agilis reference H43RETRO with retrograde minutes

The Agilis by Berthet is based on a classic hand-wound movement that is modified in-house to create the retrograde minutes display at the top of the dial. Berthet perform an operation similar to that performed by Vincent Calabrese with his company Nouvelle Horlogerie Calabrese: they use standard ETA/Unitas movements and modify them to do something…

Berthet Arte Noir Skeleton

Berthet Arte Noir Skeleton watch

Arte Noir by Berthet is a skeleton watch, 42.5 mm in diameter and 11.9 mm thick, with a hand-wound 6498 movement that is skeletonized in-house, to a design by house engineers Gérard and William Berthet. The watchmakers use a range of techniques to remove parts of the bridges, including CNC micro-machining, laser cutting and micro-cutting…

TW Steel Ace Spitfire chronograph

TW Steel Ace Spitfire

The Ace Spitfire is a new collection by Dutch brand TW Steel. It is a chronograph with the brand’s usual big and bold design style, and a Sellita SW510 movement.

Nomos Glashütte Orion 309

Top five dress watches under €2,000

What is a dress watch? A watch that can be worn with a dinner jacket or other formal wear. Today, celebrities do what they like with the classic black tie format, but the rules still exist, and you can look good even with a suit that complies with the most rigorous standards. It’s as if…

Filippo Loreti Milano Black Red Automatic

Filippo Loreti Review. Milano Black Red Automatic

This Filippo Loreti review describes the Milano Black Red Automatic by Filippo Loreti. It is a watch with a self-winding Miyota movement, and an Italian-inspired design that gives it unique looks. At the price of €489, it is a readily accessible timepiece, with a lot of details that make it a pleasure to wear. It…

Stowa Flieger Verus 40

Stowa Flieger Verus 40

The Flieger Verus 40 by Stowa is a stunning new interpretation of the Type A pilot’s watch pattern, proof that the application of good design can transform even the simplest format into an attractive and striking piece. How have the Stowa designers achieved this subtle transformation? By increasing the scale of the markings. They are a…

Aerowatch Les Grandes Classiques Gent Automatic

The Gent Automatic by Aerowatch has a sort of distinction and refinement that I would associate with the “gentleman” concept that has been used by a number of brands recently. Even though it is a very moderate 39 mm in diameter, and so in terms of size it could be worn by both men and…

Ball Engineer III Starlight

Ball Engineer III Starlight

The Ball Engineer III Starlight is a sports watch with a dial featuring large, blocky numerals that look a bit contrived, but there is a good reason for this square-geometry design. The numerals are built of micro gas tubes to provide unparalleled night-time visibility, far better than the usual luminescent paint. There are also gas…

Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Automatic

Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Automatic

With the FiftySix collection, Vacheron Constantin is reaching out to a wider section of the public than its previous audience of super-wealthy customers. The FIftySix Automatic is now the entry-level piece in Vacheron Constantin’s range, available in steel at a price of €11,800. So it’s still a very expensive watch, but Vacheron Constantin is a…